So, you’ve finally decided it’s time to upgrade your home’s cooling setup. Maybe you’ve outgrown that split system in the living room or you’re building a new place and want year-round comfort. Either way, one question keeps popping up that can’t be ignored: what size ducted aircon do I need?
It seems like a simple question on the surface. But anyone who’s been through the process will tell you it’s not as easy as picking a number off a chart. Every home is different. Every family uses their space differently. And the wrong aircon size? It can cost you a fortune in bills, repairs, and sleepless summer nights.
This guide isn’t full of fluff or sales talk. It’s written like you’re chatting with a mate who’s been through the process with practical info, real Aussie examples, and a breakdown of everything you actually need to know before you buy.
Let’s get into it.
Getting the right ducted air conditioning size isn’t just about comfort. It’s about how your system runs every day for the next 10 to 15 years. If it’s too small, it’ll struggle. Too big, and it’ll short-cycle, wear out early, and waste power.
Think of it like shoes. Too tight? Blisters. Too loose? You trip over yourself. The right fit? You barely think about them and that’s what your aircon should feel like: invisible, effective, and never overworked.
If you’re new to ducted systems, here’s the short version.
A ducted aircon uses one central unit (usually installed in the roof space or outside) that pushes cooled air through a network of ducts into every room of your house. The air comes out of vents either on the ceiling, wall, or sometimes the floor and everything is controlled by a single panel or smart app.
There’s zoning too. You can cool just the bedrooms at night, or the living areas during the day, which helps save power. Some homes even have Wi-Fi zoning to control each room individually.
But here’s the thing: all of that only works well if the system is sized correctly.
Now to the good stuff. Let’s look at what actually determines what size you need. Spoiler alert: it’s not just square metres.
Sure, room size matters. But we’re not just multiplying square metres by a number. Different rooms behave differently; a sunlit upstairs lounge needs more cooling than a shaded downstairs bedroom, even if they’re the same size.
As a loose guide:
| Home Size | Recommended Capacity |
|---|---|
| Small home (up to 150m²) | 8 – 12 kW |
| Medium home (150 – 220m²) | 12 – 16 kW |
| Large home (220m²+) | 17 – 25+ kW |
But again, that’s just a rough estimate.
Homes with good insulation (think R4.0+ batts in the ceiling, double-glazed windows) hold cool air better. That means you can get away with a slightly smaller system.
Poorly insulated homes? They bleed cool air and you’ll need more power to maintain a steady temp.
A 2.4m ceiling vs a 3m ceiling changes everything. Taller ceilings, more air volume, more work for the system. Always factor this in when sizing.
North- and west-facing rooms cop the most sun in Australia. If your living room gets roasted in the afternoon, you’ll need more capacity for that zone. It’s the same with roof colour – dark tiles absorb more heat.
Large windows (especially single-glazed) are notorious for letting heat in and cool air out. A wall full of glass will always need extra cooling support.
People generate heat. A room that’s regularly occupied by 4 – 5 people will warm up faster than one used by a single person. Add pets and appliances, and your cooling load increases again.
The power of your ducted aircon is measured in kilowatts (kW). But unlike heaters or kettles, where higher wattage = faster heating, with aircons it’s about how much space it can cool efficiently.
Here’s the kicker bigger isn’t always better.
If you go too large, your aircon will switch on and off constantly, never reaching optimal efficiency. That leads to:
Too small? It runs all day and night, struggling to keep up same result: more energy used, less comfort, and worn-out parts faster.
You want that Goldilocks zone the “just right” sweet spot.
You’ve probably already Googled something like: “aircon size calculator” or “how many kW do I need to cool a 3-bedroom home?”
And sure, those tools are okay for ballpark numbers. But they don’t consider:
An aircon consultant or installer in your local area will factor in all of that so yes, it’s always worth getting a professional heat load assessment. Most good companies offer it for free as part of the quoting process.
Let’s bring it back to real life. Numbers are helpful, but sometimes you just want to know what people with homes like yours actually use.
Here are a few real-world examples:
| Parameter | Details |
|---|---|
| Size | 130m² |
| Insulation | Average |
| Ceiling Height | 2.4m |
| Orientation | North-facing living room |
| Recommended Size | 10–12 kW |
| Zoning | Day (living/dining) and Night (bedrooms) |
This family only uses two zones at once, which helps reduce overall demand. A 12 kW system was installed to cover peak summer days without overworking the unit.
| Parameter | Details |
|---|---|
| Size | 190m² |
| Insulation | Good (roof batts + window tinting) |
| Ceiling Height | 2.7m |
| Orientation | West-facing master bedroom |
| Recommended Size | 14–16 kW |
In this case, the home uses full zoning. Bedrooms are cooled overnight; the living room and kitchen are cooled during the day. The system has inverter technology that adjusts power draw as needed.
| Parameter | Details |
|---|---|
| Size | 280m² |
| Insulation | Excellent (double glazing + roof wrap) |
| Ceiling Height | 2.4m (upstairs), 3.0m (downstairs) |
| Orientation | Mixed sun exposure |
| Recommended Size | 20 – 22 kW |
This home uses a zoned system with smart thermostats per floor. The higher ceilings downstairs meant adding extra kW to cover airflow needs, especially in open-plan areas.
Zoning is a game-changer. It’s what makes ducted aircon systems so much more efficient compared to older setups.
With zoning:
A home that might usually need a 16 kW system could get away with a 13 – 14 kW unit if zones are used smartly.
There are typically 2 – 6 zones:
Modern controllers like MyAir or Airtouch allow you to control each zone via app, even while you’re not home. Some even measure temperature in each room and adjust automatically making your aircon work smarter, not harder.
People think oversizing is safer “better too much than too little,” right? Not quite.
Both problems end the same way: frustration and extra cost. That’s why finding the right balance is crucial.
Getting the right size is just the beginning. How you use your system makes a huge difference in comfort and cost.
Here are some Aussie-tested tips:
| Tip | Why It Helps |
|---|---|
| Use zoning daily | Don’t cool empty rooms, saves energy and reduces costs |
| Keep filters clean | Improves airflow, reduces strain on the system |
| Set smart temps | 24°C is ideal; each degree lower can increase bills by ~10% |
| Use ceiling fans with aircon | Spreads cool air efficiently without extra energy use |
| Run during off-peak hours | Saves money if on time-of-use electricity plans |
| Seal air leaks | Prevents loss of cooled air, reducing wasted energy |
| Use blinds or curtains | Blocks sun from hot-facing rooms, keeping them cooler |
And if you’ve got solar panels, run the aircon during the day to soak up that free power.
As a general reference, many installers use:
125 – 150 watts per square metre
This means a 150m² home may require around 18,750 to 22,500 watts (or 18.7 to 22.5 kW).
But again, this assumes:
Your home’s real needs may shift that number up or down by several kilowatts.
Absolutely. While the size and capacity of your ducted system are critical, the brand you choose can influence everything from performance to warranty support.
Some of the top-performing ducted air conditioning brands in Australia include:
| Brand | Key Highlights |
|---|---|
| Daikin | Reliable, whisper-quiet, advanced zoning, excellent inverter tech, strong after-sales support |
| Mitsubishi Electric | Balanced price, performance & durability, popular in new builds |
| Panasonic | Efficient, nanoe™X air purification, smart tech, great for families with allergies or pets |
| Fujitsu | Affordable, good zoning options, strong service network |
Each brand offers multiple kW sizes your installer will help match a specific model to your calculated needs. Just make sure you’re getting a system that’s inverter-driven for better efficiency and longer life.
Even the best system can underperform if it’s installed poorly.
Some things to ensure:
| Factor | Why It Matters |
|---|---|
| Ductwork design is custom to your home | Installer maps airflow around furniture, room usage, and wall/roof types. |
| Correct duct size and length | Too small causes whooshing; too long wastes cooling before reaching rooms. |
| Proper return air vent sizing | Impacts airflow efficiency and noise levels of the system. |
| Unit placement | Roof units need clearance/shading; outdoor units need space and sun protection. |
Always choose a licensed air conditioning installer with experience in ducted systems and check reviews before booking.
Okay, let’s talk real numbers.
These vary depending on home size, insulation, zoning, and your brand of choice.
| Home Size | Estimated Installed Cost (AUD) |
|---|---|
| Small Home (up to 150m²) | $8,000 – $11,000 |
| Medium Home (150–220m²) | $10,000 – $14,000 |
| Large Home (220m²+) | $13,000 – $18,000+ |
Prices usually include:
Extras like Wi-Fi controllers, smart zoning systems, or premium grills may cost more.
Running costs depend on how often you use the system, the zones in use, outside temperature, and your electricity rates.
Here’s a general idea:
| Usage Scenario | Estimated Annual Cost (AUD) |
|---|---|
| Efficient, zoned use | $600 – $1,200 per year |
| Heavy, all-day cooling | $1,500 – $2,200+ per year |
| Homes with solar (daylight use) | Costs can drop to just a few hundred a year |
A smart thermostat or timer can make a huge difference.
Depending on your state or territory, you might qualify for rebates, especially if you’re replacing an old system or installing an energy-efficient inverter unit.
Here’s a rough guide:
These rebates can save $300–$1,200 off the install price, depending on your location and system.
To get the most out of your system, treat it right.
| Task | Recommended Frequency |
|---|---|
| Yearly service by licensed technician | Every 12 months |
| Clean filters | Every 3 months (more often in summer) |
| Check zoning dampers and return vents | Regularly during use |
| Thermostat settings | Keep at 23–24°C for efficiency |
| Ductwork inspection | Every 5–6 years |
A well-maintained system can last 12 – 20 years, depending on usage and environment.
So, circling back to the big question
what size ducted aircon do I need?
Here’s the real answer: It depends. But it’s worth getting right.
Choosing the correct ducted air conditioner size is not just about covering square metres. It’s about:
A bit of planning now can save you thousands over the next decade. And more importantly, it can mean coming home to a space that’s just right, not freezing, not stuffy, but cool and comfortable every day.
If you’re ever unsure, speak to a local air conditioning expert. Ask questions. Get a heat load assessment. And don’t settle for a “near enough” solution your comfort is worth the precision.
Most use 125 – 150 watts per square metre, but it’s not foolproof. Orientation, ceiling height, insulation, and zoning all affect the real answer.
Maybe but only if it’s the right size and in good condition. New systems often need new ducting layouts for better efficiency.
Most standard homes can be done in 1 – 2 days. Larger or double-storey homes may take longer.
Yes if you choose a reverse cycle ducted system. It can heat in winter and cool in summer.
Not always. Oversized systems often short-cycle, which can lead to uneven cooling and higher bills.
Usually, yes but it depends on your unit’s compatibility and the duct layout. It’s often worth the upgrade.
Definitely. Running fewer zones means less strain on the system, faster cooling, and lower energy use.